WINTER STORAGE 101.

Hi all.
I attended a seminar last night, sponsored by BMW, which talked about
winter storage of motorcycles, and thought I'd share a few things I
learned. Although I've been doing this for many years, they provided
some great information that you may not know.
Basically, it comes down to this.....well-maintained and properly
stored bikes last longer, and are cheaper to own, and safer to ride.
Here's a few things to keep in mind:

1) Fuel, or How Not to Gum Up The Works.
Contrary to what the gas companies tell us, fuel starts to
deteriorate in as little as 3 weeks. They showed us a small jar of
fuel, which was taken fresh from a pump less then a month ago, and
stored covered, in a dark place. There were already obvious signs of
separation in the fuel, and it was easy to see a sludgy film forming
on the bottom. In a large tank, this would take longer, but in a
small area (such as in your carb bowls, or in fuel lines and fuel
injectors) it can happen even quicker. So USE FUEL STABILIZER! Any
name brand will work; follow the directions on the bottle, add it
BEFORE filling the tank (to help it mix with the fuel) and be sure to
ride the bike at least 20 minutes to be sure it has worked its way
into the tiny parts of the fuel system.

2) Engine Oil, Your Bike's Life Blood.
That same 20 minute ride could be used to bring the oil up to
temperature, at which point you should change it, and the oil filter,
BEFORE storing the bike, NOT in the spring. One of the by-products of
the combustion process is the forming of acid blow-by into the oil.
This contaminates the oil (very quickly, by the way), and can leave a
coating of destructive acids on the bearings and piston rings in the
motor. This can (and WILL) cause the surfaces of the bearings to
develop tiny little "dimples", which, over time, will cause a loss of
compression, and increased oil consumption. They maintain that as
much damage can be done storing your bike with dirty oil as riding it
without enough oil!!! So change it NOW (you have to do it anyway, so
why let it "stew" in dirty juices all winter?). And unless you are
going to ride for AT LEAST a half hour during the winter months at
any one time, DO NOT START THE BIKE!!! This will cause moisture to
accumulate in the exhaust system, and the oil, causing further wear.
A good long ride will burn off the moisture, and keep things inside
the motor and exhaust from rusting.

3) Tires. They're black and round. So?
Your bike should NEVER be stored with the tires sitting on a concrete
floor! Concrete "sucks" the oils out of the rubber, and will cause a
dry, hard spot on the tire, which will cause a vibration and possible
safety issue. If your bike is on the centre stand, try and put
something under the frame to balance the bike on the stand so both
tires are off the ground, or at least, put an old piece of thick
carpet, or a piece of plywood under the wheel that's on the ground. A
motorcycle lift, which lifts both tires off the ground also releases
the suspension to its full travel, and is a better idea. Inflate your
tires to the MAXIMUM pressure shown on the sidewall. One of rubber's
natural properties is that it is porous. So your tires will lose
pressure over the winter anyway. Pumping them up to maximum pressure
helps the tire keep its natural shape, and hopefully you can just
bleed off the extra in the spring before your first ride. This is
also why you should check your tire pressure AT LEAST twice a month
during riding season.
And if your manual says the tire pressure should be 34 lbs., it
should be 34 pounds! Not 32, not 36. Bike racers adjust pressures +/-
2/10ths!! You can feel the difference in handling and "turn-in" when
a tire is low, but your braking ability is far more sensitive, and if
you need to stop in a hurry, every foot is crucial!!! Do NOT use
Armour-All or any tire "dressing" that contains silicon. It will ruin
the rubber over time (even if shiny black is your idea of a good
look, slippery black isn't a good idea for tires or seats!!)

4) Batteries. Get A Charge Out Of This.
OK, I've said it before, a properly-used automatic charger can add
years and years to the life of your battery. So buy a Battery Tender,
and hook it up. This doesn't ONLY keep the battery charged, it also
prevents sulfating of the plates, which kills 70% of the batteries in
cars and motorcycles. A cycling battery (one that is on a trickle
charger, or being used) will not freeze. A dead one will. Which
brings us to.....REMOVE the battery, or store it IN the bike? I have
always been a fan of just plugging in the charger, and leaving it in
the bike. Assuming everything works as it should, this isn't usually
a problem. However, I won't do this any more. Batteries give off
gases; that's why there's that little plastic tube, venting the
battery. IF the battery charger fails, or if the plastic tube has
some moisture in it and freezes, or if the charger gets stuck "on",
and overcharges the battery, the battery will either crack, or
explode. In either case, it can drip highly corrosive acid onto the
bike's battery mount, frame, and/or wiring. So its a way better idea
to REMOVE the battery from the bike, store it on a piece of wood (off
the concrete), in a ventilated, cool, dry place (laundry room?) AWAY
FROM SOURCES OF IGNITION (i.e. NOT next to the furnace or fuse panel
in the basement!). Make sure the cells are full of DISTILLED water,
leave the battery caps ON tight, and connect the charger. NOTE: When
you remove the battery, disconnect the NEGATIVE cable first, then the
positive one. When you re-install it, connect the positive first,
then the negative. Trust me, this is important to your safety!!

5) Cleanliness is Next to Godliness.
WASH THE BIKE!!! EVERYWHERE!! Your bike gets dirty. The dirt is damp,
and works it way into everywhere. Then the moisture dries out, and
you know what's left? Grit. Like fine sandpaper. And every time
something moves when its covered in grit, its wearing itself out.
Maybe you don't care about the paint losing its shine, or the chrome
getting dull (OK Styles, settle down!) but mechanically, you don't
want any more wear and tear then is absolutely necessary. So clean
it, clean it again, and wax it. Wax is more then a shine-maker; it
protects the paint from airborne pollutants and ozone. A Clean Bike
is a Happy Bike!!! And the payoff is a longer-lasting ride. Plus, it
looks better.

6) Does it Move?.....Lubricate it!
Everything that moves should be lubricated; pivot points of
clutch/brake levers, suspension bushings, switches, seat hinges, etc.
etc. A light coating of WD40 will do, but keep it off rubber and
paint, especially tires! By the way, the "WD" part of WD40 is "Water
Dispersant". No water means no corrosion. `nuff said.

7. Electrical Gremlins. The Buzz Stops Here.
When you have the plastic covers off the bike for cleaning or
maintenance, have you ever noticed a green, "fuzzy" kind of stuff on
those little plastic plugs and connectors connected to all the wires?
That, my friends, is the beginning of Excedrin Headache
Number7.....contact corrosion. One of the hardest problems for your
mechanic (or Your Guy) to diagnose is an intermittent electrical
connection. And these are usually caused by corrosion. So every time
you see one of those connectors, open it, spray it with Contact
Cleaner (the only thing I ever buy from The Source) and then dab on a
little dielectric grease (available ay my favorite toy store,
Canadian Tire). Plug it back in, and 20 years from now the electrical
connection will be as clean as new. It only takes second to do. It
can save you from paying hours and hours of diagnostic-time repair
bills. Do it.

8. Dem's Da Brakes.
When was the last time you changed your brake fluid? If it was back
when 555 still had hair (ooo, I'm going to pay for that one!) its too
long ago. In fact, if it was more then 3 years, its too long. Brake
fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture). The brake system (master
cylinder, seals, calipers, etc) doesn't like water. Water causes the
fiber seals to crack and leak, it causes corrosion (there's that word
again!) in things like calipers that are supposed to move freely, and
makes your brakes feel "spongy", reducing your control. Brake fluid
is easy to change, although its WAY easier with 2 people. If you
don't know how, feel free to ask for instructions, or have your
mechanic do it...BUT DO IT! Brake fluid is cheap, and the time
involved is minimal. New master cylinders, slave cylinders, calipers
and the rest of the system is costly. You don't want to replace any
of it (especially if your bike has ABS.....the ABS pump for my bike
costs $2500.00 for parts only!!!) .

9. CHAINS. CHAINS, My Baby's Got Me Locked Up In Chains.
Don't just lubricate it, because all you're doing is forcing the dirt
into the rollers. CLEAN IT first. Use a spray-on cleaner, and turn
the wheel slowly while absolutely COVERING the chain with cleaner,
then go have a coffee. 20 minutes later, hose off the cleaner, and
you will see a humongous pile of dirt, sludge, gunk and crap under
the bike. The chain will be clean and shiny, just like new. THEN
LUBRICATE IT WITH FRESH CHAIN LUBE!!! and adjust it as per the
owner's manual. Or buy a bike with a shaft, or a belt. But if you're
stuck on a chain, take care of it, and it can last way long.


 

All Canadian Motorcycle Enthusiasts